July 26^th, 2012

My air con is not consistent. I came home from visiting Spencer to a warmer apartment.  I messed with the thermostat and walked away. It had worked for me in the past but this time no such luck and last night I was really hot. I remember those summer nights as a kid in my house, it was hot too but at least I had a fan circulating the air. Here it is stagnant.  But hopefully it will kick back on when I play with it some more.

What I’ve learned in the past month. Saudi’s are lazy. Work is beneath them.  That is why you have so many Filipino’s living here, they do all the manual labor.  But if you were not a Saudi and started a business you would be forced to hire a significant percentage of locals into the positions even if someone else is more qualified with more experience.  Nursing isn’t a highly revered profession and until recently it was a difficult profession to pursue to a Saudi.   The PCT, patient care techs, who are on the unit really don’t work,  we have to get our buddy to help us turn and clean up our patients.  The PCTs are locals. Silly, that we even have such a position then if they don’t do anything.   

Prayer time, 5 times a day really messes with productivity. If you have a list of things to do that involves retail, service or any working industry it will close for at least 30 minutes if not longer. The bank for instance, not only does it close for all the prayer times but it also closes an hour for lunch.  So the work day which would be 8 hrs is really only 6 hrs.  During Ramadan Muslims are only required to work 6 hrs a day so it makes that regular 6 hrs like 4.5 hours. 

Ramadan has arrived and everyone is fasting.  I am not quite sure what it represents but all Muslims fast for about a month, not only do they fast but obtain from their bodily appetites and passions, i.e. no hanky panky.  They fast from sun up to sun down.  That would really be a challenge if they led normal lives and normal activity during the day but they don’t.  They just change day to night, so they sleep all day.  Shops, restaurants, markets are closed all day and don’t open until the evening.  Some places don’t open until after evening prayer which right now makes that time 9PM.  So people are out from 2100 to 0300; eating their last meal and saying the Morning Prayer before going to bed.   This isn’t the case for everyone though, the Muslim nurses are still required to work their 12 hours and day or night whichever is assigned to them.   Like I mentioned previously the government positions are 6 hours, starting late and ending early.  My definition of fasting is slightly different than the locals.  But I am excited to head out next weekend and see what’s day has now become night.

The other day I sat thinking about Islam. I’d watched a movie about Mecca and Hajj or the great Pilgrimage.  I always assumed it was just a great travel to Mecca for worship praying around that big black square building in the eastern edge of the mosque.  But  it is like a week ordeal and very symbolic of Islamic beliefs.  In short those performing Hajj arrive and pray at the Kaaba;  then run back and forth between two hills seven times symbolic of Hagar desperately in search of food for Ishmael (now a covered route), next they go out to a camp where they make an 8 mile journey by foot or vehicle to the mount where Mohamed gave his last sermon and spend the day seeking cleansing and purification, then they go back to the camp.  From the camp they gather pebbles in which they throw a suggested number at 3 different pillars representing Abraham casting away Satan before making it back to Mecca for their final walk around the Kaaba.   The system is very structured these days in attempt to prevent people from getting trampled.  The government actually built two levels surrounding the pillars with a switchback path that controls the crowd a bit.  In  Islamic tradition holds that the Kaaba fell from Heaven to show Adam and Eve where to build an altar. Mohamed was given a revelation revealing this truth.   Those performing Hajj walk seven times around the Kaaba getting as near as to kiss the rock, emulating the kiss that Islamic tradition records that it received from Muhammad.  If they can’t touch it they point to it. The rock is covered by a piece of black cloth with gold threaded script sewn into the fabric. This fabric costs millions of dollars and is replaced annually.  Very interesting that there is so much symbolism, and it rings familiar to me.

I’d forgotten how many countries have a significant population of Muslim.  I had only thought of the Middle East.

Just a few things I learned about women:  They have to get permission to leave the country, to partake in Hajj, to do just about anything.

Women are not highly regarded but they are, yet they must be subservient to their husbands.   It is respectful to walk behind your husband.  As a woman your name isn’t told to guests or other people during introductions.

And they are confined to separation everywhere even rooms of the house.  They sit around a lot and the wealthy even have servants to do the housework.  You can imagine what effect this sedentary lifestyle can have on one’s body.  

When I was walking around the market the other week I saw very racy, trendy, and sexy dresses and outfits.  I didn’t understand why those would even be sold here.  Women wear an abaya and should be humble in appearance.  I found out that women do wear these items as well as frosting themselves with jewels at weddings, yet not for the men but for each other.  At weddings the rooms is segregated with a curtain in between and the women take off their abayas and flaunt their wealth and bodies to the other women.  This can also be worn at home, but only for the husband.  It is very different from my culture women do this for a man’s attention, but I guess to make themselves look better than other women but for a man.  

My apartment.  I live on the hospital property or compound.  There are 7 housing complexes on the grounds at various distances and levels of privacy.  Mine is one of three closest to the hospital. It takes me about 10 minutes to walk to my unit depending on whether the doors are locked or not.  It's been happening more regularly, it might be because of Ramadan but I'm not sure.  It's frustrating to walk in the direction of my usual exit to find it locked, then have to retrace my steps and walk all the way around the building on the outside.  It really doesn't make sense but I am coming to realize that many things don't.

I call my apartment a cave because it is so dark and old.  I have the unit the farthest down the hallway, and the farthest away from the exit of my complex.

Most units are shared with one other person.  Usually they try to combine similar cultures and habits.  My flatmate whom I only had for a week went home because her brother became really ill and hospitalized.  She attempted to get an extended leave, which was denied.  I probably won't have a new flat mate until the next orientation, after Ramadan.

We have a swimming pool that is in the middle of the complex.  We also have an unused pool table, and a dozen computer in the complex lobby, which is what I use since I refuse to pay for my internet.  I have heard stories about women from other more secluded complexes, mostly Europeans mind you, going topless at the pools.  Thinking nothing of the workers on the roof who don't get any work done that day.  It is so funny to me that they lack the awareness and respect that modesty is a big deal here.  What is okay in their country may not be okay here, just maybe.  I get enough attention with my clothes on, and no make-up;  I wouldn't be looking for any more.

My kitchen

My Bedroom

My living room (my carpet is at least 30 years old)

My apartment 504 and the long hallway to the elevator

July  17^th

I had my first few days working on the MICU-C unit at King Faisal Specialist Hospital and Research Center.  The hospital was at one time mostly employed by Westerners, but left since all the tragic events involving the middle east went down.  I would feel like I was working at home because it is structured the same way, same sorts of policies and procedures.   

After work I called the Halal taxi company, contracted with the hospital for a ride out to Eskan Village to spend a few days with Spencer.  This is when I met my new Kenyan friend, Mooriah whom I now use regularly to pick me up and transport me to and from Spencer’s place.  

We went to the ECC (Eskan Community Center) to chat with Spencer’s co-workers. It is the hang-out in the evenings since a lot of people have found it too much of a hassle to head out of the Compound.  They have a Bingo, and Texas Hold ‘em nights, and I'm not sure what else.  The ECC also houses a restaurant with various theme nights, German, Steak, Italian, Southern Cooking, but then every month is probably a reaccuring theme.   Ruby, Kelly, Danny and some guys were sitting at the same table on the balcony that we had found them last week. We chatted for a while before heading back home to make some dinner.  

When I come out to Eskan I encourage Spencer to get some CrossFit workouts for us. The equipment is limited so it consists of various sets of squats, pull-ups, sit-ups, push-ups.  This last week he incorporated doubles with the  jump rope, and swimming.  I am not a swimmer, and after doing squats, kettlebell swings, and push-ups I am barely keeping myself afloat to the edge of the pool to take a breather before continuing back to the other end and start another round.  But it feels good afterwards and it is something we do together, I like that.

Spencer had mentioned that Sergeant Falcon, a paralegal in his office was going to give us a little tour down town.  I was excited. Serg. Falcon has been here over a year. I assumed he was going to  take us to several places and highlight a few things for us.  I was looking forward to it since my last tour was just of the outlying sights of the city.  Not long after we left the traffic was horrible, and come to find out there was construction and three of the 5 lanes had been closed down.  So it took an hour instead of ½ to get into the city.  We went to ‘Chop Chop square’ and a market nearby.  When we pulled up things starting looking familiar, I had been here before.  Last week I had gone by the hospital transport to Dirah Market in search for an abaya…I didn’t know this was near to ‘Chop Chop’ Square.  This place is where the government publically punishes its felons for various crimes. No, there was no action that day, and apparently if there was the people pull in the foreigners and make them watch the process.  I am not sure how I would react, would it be fascinating, cruel or dehumanizing.  Anyhow, Spencer was on a mission looking for a card, which we didn’t find.  Serg. Falcon took us behind the market a perused the week before to the carpet, jewelry, and various Saudi Crafts market.  This is what I enjoy. I could have spent a while here looking at things. I’ll just have to find some time on my own when I can do so.

We also went into the old, renovated Fortress turned into Musuem that had limited informational boards translated into English.  It was basically describing about the history of Saudi, process of unifying the various areas and the recapture to what it is today.  There used to be a wall surrounding all of Riyadh, the kings city, but has since mostly been torn down with the expansion and growth.

As we were driving around, the building were old and falling apart.  It looked like war had passed through the area. Yet, in other parts of the city the roadways have landscaped medians and huge beautiful  new buildings.  The material they used to use and the rush to build didn’t withstand the elements or time, hopefully they have improved since.  There are some very cool architectural buildings in the city, most noteabley the Kingdom Tower, and the Faisailaria both huge skyscraper building that you can go to the top of and get views of the city.

After, we had wandered a bit in the Dirah market we headed back to the car and on to Ikea and the grocery store.  The sun was beating fiercely upon us; I decided before we left that I was going to go cloth-less underneath my abaya.  LDS people are the only ones to wear two forms of religious clothing in Saudi Arabia and I wasn’t about to wear more clothing than necessary in this weather.

Spencer and I would love to find a more comfortable couch, and a blanket or two.  We didn’t think about needing something here or we would have brought Spencer’s love sac and some blankets we got for our wedding.

We also went to church for the first time. For the sake of security I am not going to mention specifics. Apparently the government knows we are here and about how many of us there are.  They don’t mind but the Matawa, the religious police, will reward anyone who reports suspicious activity.  The branch has had to move locations four time for the threat of discovery.  There are actually two branches, one with mostly Filipino (may be married but working here single and sending their money home) and the later one is families with kids.   I’ve heard there are quite a few ex-pats in that ward.  I am not racist and I am not being derogatory but I work with Asians, live with Asians, and now go to church with them.  I just miss my own people, ‘the undercooked clay,’ as was stated by a Filipino in his talk. Apparently brown is just right, and black is burned…I know a few people that might get offended with that statement.  The thought of it made me laugh.

Weekends are different here, and so are the meetings, Sabbath is Sabbath no longer, and isn’t the 7^th day. It is taken an adjustment for Spencer and I to keep the Sabbath day holy, but who’s Sabbath are we keeping holy?

July 11, 2012

Finally it is a Friday again. I am not sure I would like the Monday through Friday work schedule. I am glad this week has provided me with some free time throughout the day. I can come back to my place or go use the internet and get various things I need to get done.

I took a medication exam today.  I believe I passed but some questions I feel didn’t quite have a correct answer but I will know this afternoon if I passed by getting at least an 80%.

I don’t want to bore details just mentioned so I will write about something more interesting.  I went on a tour of Riyadh or part of Riyadh, and mostly the outlying sights then the city center.  There was a mixed Aussie and Filipino couple and his parents.  When I make that statement which partner automatically is the male in your mind?  I would always assume the woman to be Filipino in this case.   Anyway there was also a couple other Filipino friends, and 2 Caucasian women from the US who are here doing some Cancer survey.

Our guide is , Farris, a local but lived in the Grand Rapids, Michigan for over 20 years.   We started our tour in the hospital van which seats about 15.  It was about 3pm and near the hottest part of the day, so even with the A/C blasting it didn’t get very cool.  I got a little nauseous for a while due to heat and lack of hydration.  We left the hospital and went to a nearby neighborhood with high cement walls and quite large houses.  He wanted to show us the wealthy section and design of the homes in this area. Farris, points out to us that there is about 50,000 Saudi royalties.  Farris then informed us that specific areas used to be cheap for land but when Royalty built on the land all the neighboring areas became expensive.

We visited or drove around Saud University.  Nothing too special about it. 

Then we were stopped nearby at the ancient ruins Al’ Diryah (spelled a number of different ways), which is currently being reconstructed.  The goal is for the area to be a UNESCO site but they aren’t preserving the area but rebuilding it. How does that make it a world heritage site?   Since they are rebuilding it; it is closed to the public unless you get a special letter, which Farris said he could get if I could gather a large enough group (meaning it would be monetarily valuable for him to make the effort).

We drove by many, many, many palaces of such and such prince.   I would never get that straight no matter how long I lived here. There are too many of them.  But the Palaces were very solid and outstanding.

Wadi Hanifah is a man-made oasis that is about 80 km long.  It has become like a park for the locals with a rocky walking path and various areas designated for picnicking and resting.  These areas are made of stone, there wasn’t any grass. Parts of wadi are landscaped.  For the locals it is a nice hang out in the evenings and weekends.

We also stopped along some bridge which in the Wadi below was a huge area for impounded vehicles. I have never seen such a large lot of confiscated cars.  I think once it is gone, the owner would never be able find it to get it back. J

The last stop worth mentioning in any detail is Wadi Namar, the man-made lake/reservoir which water is come from the sewage. There is a leaching system near to the highway, it filters out the waste and the water seeps through the rocks.  Some of this water is ciphened to this reservoir.  No, people don’t swim here but just sit or stroll along the tiered walkway overlooking the water.  I can imagine not having much water in the area, this must be a nice place to congregate even if you wouldn’t and couldn’t take a dip in it.

We also drove to the Ortega Produce Market which was closed for evening prayer.  It would be about 20 Riyals for me to take a taxi to the place so just not worth it if I was to go alone.  I am going to try the FreshVery delivery of produce and see how much that costs.  We then headed to the Fish Market which is near by the National Museum.  The National Museum has landscaped parks and seems to quite a nice place to come in the evening as well.  In the summer, Farris pointed out, they have a fair-like setup for the kids.  Farris also pointed out some of his favorite restaurants.

*A little side note. I was informed at the beginning of my orientation to look at the labels of the bottled water.  Some of them add quite a bit of Sodium, and we all know Sodium causes water retention.  I have noticed that some bottles will have 16-22PPM in 1 liter and other will only have 1-2.  That is quite a variable.

The government gives a 500,000 SR home loan.  They do not charge interest for the loan.  And if you actually make your annual payment of 12,500 Riyals on time, the rate is discounted to 9,500 Riyals.  That is amazing!  But it is interesting information one person tells you is negated by another persons personal story as is this case.*  

July 8, 2012

Yesterday as I was walking to and from work I noticed a woman spraying off the walkway with the hose and the sprinklers watering the complex lawn during mid-day.  It is encouraged for us to take short showers and yet locals waste so much.  I guess we know Conservation and the concept is beyond the locals.  Maybe another 50 years?.  

I was having a chat with the guy in charge of the general nursing orientation.  We were talking about various things, activities, education, vacation and other questions I had.  I then proceeded to walk to the other side of the Family Medicine Clinic so I could book an appointment to get some free prescriptions. I will take advantage of that since nothing else is free here.  Anyway, George is his name came over to me again and ‘suggested’ that I cover up my arms, ‘wear my lab coat or something’ from now on.  For some reason I was under the impression that I could wear modest clothing.  My recruiting agency didn't do well in preparing me for the trip.  Actually, no I can’t wear shorts or short sleeves, and I have to make sure it is all baggy like I did in 90’s when grunge was in; and yes definitely bring 20 plus passport photos because everything you do here they will ask for multiples. They could have said something like that instead of leaving me with so many false impressions.

The hospital uses Power chart, and computer charting system for everything, and I mean everything can be found or done on it when it comes to our patients. I used Power chart when I was working in Pittsburgh and I liked it. But apparently we have four 2-hour courses of training for it.  It good refresher but there are some women that are slow, slower than molasses on a cold winter’s day.  I just sit there waiting for the next step, ‘really?!’ And it turns out that this course is a waste of time, we really do most things on paper and sometimes duplicate charting, paper and computer.  I don't get what the point of the class was, teach new concepts when you are prepared to implement them, everyone will have to retake the course in the future when it does change because they will have forgotten everything.  

Well,  my housemate Shelly left for home.  She had signed a two year contract and only been here 4 months so far. Her brother was sick recently and got intubated two days ago.   She got a flight home the next morning, and left me a note that it will probably be a while if ever when she returns.   I felt bad for her.

I was thinking about the nurses here and why they would have left home to come here to work.  It is good money generally but as I chatted with a woman in the Nurses Clinic who came from the States, the big bucks and good days are gone. Everything used to be free, Internet, taxis, gym but now that all comes at a cost and prices have gone up in Saudi in recent years.  They may not be making much money off us of from the cuts of freebies but the benefits and reasons to be here as a Westerner has definitely gone down. 

I went out to Eskan Village to see Spencer. The security there is quite lengthy.  I took a taxi out there who actually didn’t know where he was going and we went on a mouse hunt looking for the place.  It is hard to explain what we did except to say we drove right by it but didn’t recognize it as such, then headed back in the direction of town because there wasn’t an overpass for us to crossover the freeway and head back the other direction.  There are several sets of barricades and Saudi military to pass before getting to the American side of security.   Spencer came a few minutes later.  We signed me in and I handed over my dependant Military ID and got a visitor pass for 48 hrs. 

It was strange because so much had happened from when I saw him last that it felt like a month had past when in reality it hadn’t even been a week yet.  I missed him tremendously.   We had a great reunion and spent the ‘weekend’ together. Weekends here are Thursday and Friday.  So in Saudi it is TGIWednesdays.  But I don’t think my mind will ever transfer the weekend for anything other than Friday, so I will call Wednesday Friday, even though I work shifts and over weekends.

There was a July 4th Celebration on the 5^th.  The Celebration held a BBQ, watermelon eating & carving contest, and a talent show.  The party continued on into the evening but we didn’t stay.  No, Spencer did not jump rope at the talent show.  He thought about it but he’s ‘bored’ with the routine and much of the act as he says is the enthusiasm he has in it.   I was told that I better start practicing because next family reunion it would be a double act, Spencer and I both jump roping. Ha-ha! 

It continues to be warm, I feel zapped of my energy when I walk outside.  I haven’t really been out on the town yet.  I am glad I bought that guide book even though it is 8 years old.  It has things nearby that we can do and I’ve made a little list I when I have the weekend off that we can venture together.

I have a feeling that when I start working I will feel taken advantage of.  I will be sure to take as many vacations as possible.

I guess I will begin with a little synopses to bring this post up to speed.  There once was a girl who was passionate about seeing and experiencing the world, she couldn't settle her restless heart.  One day a friend who kept in contact with her during her months of travels became more than a friend.  Upon returning from her travels she was impressed with new feelings for this friend.  The relationship quickly blossomed; but there were a few obstacles in their way.  He was leaving to work in the Middle East for a year, unaccompanied.  The news went from an exciting job and travel opportunity to challenging potential separation as the girl pursued potential jobs near his station.  It all turned out in the end, the couple got married, packed their belonging and started off on their new life together, and to a new country.

May 26th we were married in Nauvoo, Illinois; June 29th I caught my flight leaving the comforts of home to start my nursing job at the King's Hospital, and Spencer to followed shortly afterward.

That is my story the long and short of it anyway. I find myself sitting on my couch in an air condition duplex.  We live in the dessert, hot and dry.  I praise the convenience of having air conditioning, and jump from one bit of shade to the next.  I constantly complain to myself that it's hot. I live and work in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia as well as my husband.  This is our story, or my version of it.